Beauty and the bistro: Allium offers French cuisine with a view

As the co-owners of Germantown Café, Chris Lowry and Jay Luther helped set the standard for upscale comfort food. Now the two have teamed up again to bring us Allium, a French-inspired bistro situated just across the Cumberland River on the edge of East Nashville.

Allium boasts much of the same cozy, yet sophisticated style of its predecessor. But make no mistake — this is not Germantown Café Part Deux. Allium stands on its own with a straightforward (and surprisingly affordable) menu, excellent service and what has to be one of the city’s best skyline views.

“Although Germantown Café serves pretty traditional American food, people have often referred to us as sort of a Nashville take on a French bistro,” said Lowry, who operates the front of house while Luther oversees the kitchen. “And we found that in our travels, we tend to gravitate toward French cuisine. So, as we started thinking about the idea of opening a new place, this just made sense.”

This straightforward approach is reflected not only in Allium’s decor — marked by sleek lines, muted colors and spacious windows — but in the food, as well. The restaurant takes its name from the family of botanicals, such as onions, garlic and chives, that serve as the basis for most French dishes.

And whether you are looking for a quick lunch (try the warm trout salad or traditional croque monsieur) or a leisurely, romantic dinner (the French wine list is ample, and again, affordable), Allium’s menu is sure to satisfy.

Appetizers include steamed mussels and escargot wrapped in a lovely puff pastry with cheese and herb garlic butter. And Germantown Café regulars will recognize Luther’s signature crock of bubbly goodness known as French onion soup. But the real standout is the delicious potato gnocchi, served with an amazing bacon-pear cream sauce that is likely to make you ask for seconds.

But you’ll be glad you waited for the entrées, all of which are accompanied by a well-dressed salad with mustard vinaigrette. Highlights include a gorgeous oven-roasted chicken served with garlic mashed potatoes, a beautifully executed pork milanese with rich macaroni gratin, and steak frites served with a tangy peppercorn demi-glace and crispy fries.

“I loved the idea of trying something new,” said Luther, a Belmont art grad and self-taught chef known for his creative, yet unpretentious style of cooking. “But the key is to keep it simple. Good food does not have to be complicated.”

Lowry agrees, adding, “For those who appreciate French bistro cuisine, this will certainly appeal. But it’s just as approachable for the average diner.”

Open since December, Lowry says the fledgling business is doing well, despite the current economic slowdown.

“If this was our first restaurant, I think we would be more nervous,” he said. “But we’re seeing a lot of repeat customers, which is always good news. And the opening of Allium hasn’t impacted business at Germantown Café. In fact, when Germantown filled up for New Year’s Eve and Valentine’s Day, we were able to take advantage of quite a few referrals – another plus.”

As temperatures climb, Luther says diners can expect to see a more seasonal menu as well as happy hour specials on the restaurant’s spacious patio. Until then, he’ll continue to perfect his down-to-earth approach to food while tinkering with one of his favorite parts of the menu — dessert.

“I love coming up with new flavor combinations and ideas,” he said, noting that he would someday like to open a bakery. “But you know, food is kind of like art — there’s nothing really new out there. You just try to make it your own.”

Allium

501 Main St.

242-3522

alliumnashville.com

• Free underground parking available behind restaurant