Homage to a great restaurateur — and wine lover

One of my heroes died last week.

The passing of Jean-Claude Vrinat, the 71-year-old owner of Restaurant Taillevent in Paris — a Michelin Guide three-star restaurant for decades — is a tremendous loss for food, wine and restaurant lovers. He was the most gracious, most humble host there has ever been.

The last time I dined at Taillevent, my 16-year-old son and his friend had been roaming the city in the pouring rain for three hours when we picked them up on the corner for lunch. Neither Mr. Vrinat nor any of his staff even batted an eyelash as the two boys were dripping rainwater on the carpet in the vestibule. They took them to the restroom and helped them clean themselves up — treating them like any other guest — which is like royalty.

We did have a laugh when they helped my 6-foot-4-inch son with his friend’s jacket (his friend was 5-foot-8-inches tall) and vice versa. When my son’s friend couldn’t finish his appetizer and we were going to swap plates so I could finish it, Mr. Vrinat intercepted the plate, took it to the kitchen and had the dish replated so it looked like new. And when we left, Mr. Vrinat stood in the rain in what appeared to be an expensive suit to hold an umbrella over our heads as we got into our cab.

Here is the story Robert Parker tells about him on his Web site:

“That is terrible news. I knew Jean-Claude from the first time I ate there in 1975. He was among the most gracious and honorable men I have ever known. My condolences to his family... especially Sabine and Valerie.

I will share with you a story about Jean-Claude.

Up until several years ago I ate there at least twice a year. The first time I ate there after starting The Wine Advocate was in March, 1979. I gave him a few sample issues and we talked after dinner about wine and my publication. Subsequently, he sent a check for a three-year subscription... I remember well as he was the first VIP subscriber. Three years later his renewal had come up... we had become mutual admirers and friends... and I told my secretary... just give him another three years and don't bill him. The next two times I ate at Taillevent he asked where the ‘facture’… or bill, was for his subscription. I always said... ‘in the mail’… or we will send it.’

The third time I ate there after extending him a free subscription because of my admiration for him and his encouraging wisdom at the very beginning of my career, he asked again about his ‘missing bill’... and I said the same thing.

When my ‘facture’ or ‘l'addition’ came for my dinner that night ...Jean-Claude wrote on the check ....’I forgot what you ate and drank, so the meal is with my compliments. Now we are even.’

Jean-Claude Vrinat will remain the standard bearer of graciousness and kindness in running a world-class restaurant. This one hits me hard... maybe I will have one of his favorite wines tonight... as he was the man who first introduced me to a totally unknown vigneron... a guy named Jean-Francois Coche-Dury... with his 1976 Meursault... he will be missed....”

When I read recently that The Michelin Guide had demoted Taillevent to two stars (it said the food was not creative enough), I e-mailed Mr. Vrinat asking if it could be true. His response was something close to this: “It is in fact true. For many years, three stars. Today two stars. Tomorrow, who knows, perhaps no stars. The stars they cannot take away are the stars in our clients’ eyes when they are enjoying a fine meal with us. And the stars they cannot take away are the stars in the American flag, which flew over the White House and now hangs on the wall behind my desk.”

The fact that he took the time to answer my e-mail at what must have been a difficult time for him says a lot about what kind of man he was.

My wife and I are having lunch there with friends in early February. I don’t know if we will be able to get through the meal.

On a happier note, if you haven’t dined at City House, a new Italian restaurant on Fourth Avenue North in Germantown, you’re missing out. Opened only about a month, I think it is one of Nashville’s finest restaurants and the most exciting new one in a long time.

My three “must try” wines for this week

2005 Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, $16.99

There is almost no such thing as a good value Napa Cabernet these days, but this is the exception that proves the rule. Lots of lush fruit, with soft, silky tannins, it’s a terrific under $20 Cabernet.

2006 Schloss Gobelsberger Gruner Veltliner “Gobelsberger,” $16.99

You can always tell if a restaurant’s wine buyer is involved in the Master Sommelier program, because there will be a lot of Gruner Veltliners. That is because they are the world’s most versatile food wines. Everything you love about German Riesling (minerality, acidity, balance) and everything you love about white Burgundy (intensity, richness) without the things you hate about both. This is about as good as you can expect of an under $20 white wine.

2004 Clarendon Hills Syrah “Moritz,” $77.99

This is an astonishingly great wine — like a hypothetical Hermitage made from grapes grown in Australia instead of the Rhone Valley. It’s a fabulous more than 25-year-old wine.