It’s all about community, comfort at The Local Taco

A plate of local barbecue, Korean barbecue and fish tacos from The Local Taco

Newly opened Sylvan Park eatery The Local Taco is destined for long-term success.

And not because of an adventurous menu, distinctive cuisine or upscale décor.

Rather, The Local Taco — instantly upon its opening, no less — stepped up to the tortilla plate and belted a verde-sauce-powered grand slam by masterfully delivering on a simple premise: emphasize strengths and downplay weaknesses. Or, in this case, accept your few weaknesses and don’t make excuses.

“We’re not trying to cover up the fact that we’re not a true Mexican restaurant,” said The Local Taco co-owner John Ko. “We are what we are.”

And that’s the fun of little joints like Nashville icons Baja Burrito, Calypso Café, Manny’s House of Pizza and Bobbie’s Dairy Dip.

To his credit, Ko knows the score. When told by this writer that The Local Taco’s rice lacks flavor, Ko concurred politely (unlike some business owners, whose insecurity or ego would perhaps spur an unseemly reaction to such customer bluntness). He said he’s working on the rice, with perhaps a pilaf option to be implemented.

Ko and his business partners wanted to give west Nashville a basic, yet playful and pleasing taco joint — a place with inexpensive food and a neighborhood hangout vibe. They’ve done so skillfully. The menu is just intriguing enough; the smallish bar (with a TV for sports and mason jar pendant lights), more than inviting; the interior, a clean color scheme combo of black, blue, white and yellow; the outdoor eating area, perfect for lustily devouring a tasty fish taco and a cold Sol beer on a humid Saturday.

“I can’t say we’re a fusion type of restaurant or a type of gourmet taco establishment,” Ko said in an attempt to define The Local Taco. “We’re just a good old local restaurant with some interesting combinations of food wrapped in a tortilla. It’s a simple a la carte order at the counter where we try to be fresh, affordable and fast.”

TLT tacos, made with soft-flour tortillas, are $2.50 each. Enchiladas, crafted from corn tortillas, cost $3.25 per pop. Sides (refried beans, Mexican rice and black beans) are $1.75, while salsa (red or green, $2.50), queso ($3.50) and guacamole ($4) come with tortillas chips (made from locally grown white corn).

Beverage options are rather broad for a no-nonsense eatery. The Local Taco features five cocktails, eight wines, 11 beers, nine tequilas and various margarita options.

On the “local theme,” Ko is determined to be true to the eatery’s name.

“We try to promote local businesses, artists, musicians and charities,” he said. “Our local beer is Yazoo Dos Perros, and our local wine is from Arrington [Vineyards]. We also buy our tortillas and chips from La Hacienda (a South Nashville institution), and our bar-b-cue is local from House of Hickory.”

That BBQ is presented — in a nod to Ko’s heritage — in the Korean style, with Asian slaw, toasted sesame seeds and green onion.

In the future, Ko hopes to add more non-meat items.

“There are a lot of vegetarians in Nashville,” Ko said. “We have experimented with some tofu and soysage tacos.”

Ko and his team are not new to the restaurant world.

Business partner Jay Pennington, who previously owned South Street and Bound’ry, is the “brains behind a lot of the creative menu items and also helped design our space,” Ko said. Fellow business partner Michael Sloane has owned more than 70 restaurants (including more than 60 Papa John’s locations at one point) throughout the Southeast and lends expertise with branding and finances.

In the kitchen, chef Juan Diaz-Rivera (who grew up in Mexico City) has been key in creating The Local Taco’s traditional Mexican menu items like the chicken tinga (shredded chicken seasoned with chipotle, onions and garlic and topped with cheese and tomatoes).

Assisting Diaz-Rivera are veterans Michael Cribb (a former Bound’ry chef) and Clay Greenberg (formerly of Lime and Virago), with support from rising star Chris Futrell.

Ko said he wants The Local Taco to be a “community driven establishment.”

“That’s probably the main reason why we just started to open on Sundays, because the neighbors wanted a place to eat on Sundays in this area,” he said.

Customers have embraced The Local Taco with the type gusto associated with famished folks devouring chips and salsa. On recent Sunday and Tuesday lunchtime visits, TLT boasted hungry crowds enjoying food and fun.

“I just had the tequila lime chicken taco,” said Kristen Freude, a TLT first timer from whom this writer coaxed some comments. “It had a kick to it.”

“I’ll absolutely be back,” she said.

Knowing Nashville has many quality Mexican restaurants, Freude’s words are to Ko’s ears what The Local Taco’s spicy shrimp tacos are to his stomach.

“I love the taco stands on Nolensville Road and places like Las Palmas and Cinco de Mayo,” Ko said. “We don’t want to try to compete with these authentic Mexican restaurants or confuse our customers that we are like them. They are in a league of their own.”

Not even two months old, The Local Taco is happy to simply be in a league its fans like.

The Local Taco
4501 Murphy Road
891-3271
thelocaltaco.com
11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday