Market's not so 'run of the Mill'

 Darin Scheff

A sociology professor once noted that the Amish combine organic farming skills with the ability to avoid self-destructive behavior better than any other ethnic group in the United States.

Darin Scheff is neither Amish nor a sociologist. But the owner of the nostalgia-laden Nolensville Feed Mill in “downtown” Nolensville believes in Amish agricultural wizardry.

Entering Scheff’s almost militantly earthy and folksy market, one quickly realizes this is not a 7-Eleven. Rather, the Mill — Williamson County’s oldest operating business — offers a somewhat hard-core version of a Cracker Barrel, with the Amish products a key focus.

“The Amish put a lot of pride in their work,” Scheff said with a level of understatement associated with a comment about, say, New York City boasting lots of tall buildings.

Organic Amish breads and spreads aside, the Nolensville Feed Mill offers other goodies, including Flossie’s Corn Dog Mix, Sprecher root beer (as tasty as a root beer can be) and antique lamps, chairs and tables. It’s a general store of sorts, with the vibe and look of, well, an actual 1930s-era general store. No fancy signage or lighting. No Pepsi or Pabst Blue Ribbon. No gas pumps in the front. This is real America, and Scheff wants to preserve it.

In fact, the California native sees a connection between the old-time general store culture and old-time music. About once a week, Scheff and his friends gather to jam on folk, country and rock tunes, many of which are of a timeless feel.

“There might be five guitar players, two banjo players, a couple mandolin players,” he said, “and some guy with drum sticks beating on a tomato box from our produce market.”

Ah, the old tomato box percussionist. A musician’s musician, indeed.

Music thing's not surprising

Scheff’s father, Jerry Scheff, was the bassist for Elvis Presley in the 1970s and recorded some classic Doors songs, including “Riders on the Storm” and “Love Her Madly.” Brother Jason Scheff has been the bassist with the legendary Chicago since 1985.

“Jason just was asked to write a few songs with Teddy Gentry (of Alabama) and immediately said we need to pull me in,” Darin said. “Teddy asked, ‘Who’s your brother?’ Jason said, ‘He owns the Feed Mill in Nolensville and has more hooks than a tackle box.’ That was a great compliment coming from my brother.”

Scheff bought the Feed Mill and its property (including the venerable creamery building next door) in February 2005.

“Some of the old-timers were a little worried that I might bulldoze it and do away with the buildings,” he recalled. “But I never had intensions of taking the buildings down. I bought them because they were so rich in history and had so much to offer. They made 600-pound blocks of butter in the 1930s [in the creamery].”

Before opening, Scheff gave the Feed Mill building some improvements.

“I even got under the mill and cleaned it out too,” he said. “I was hoping to find some old bits of history but came up empty. Well, not true. I did find a couple old whiskey bottles hidden in some of the old rough-cut floor joists.”

What the mills feeds you

Obviously, the Feed Mill does not offer whiskey. Rather, Scheff focuses on Amish jams and musical jam sessions.

“Our biggest Amish sellers are our breads,” he said. “The white and wheat bread is amazing and made by the Graber’s in Indiana. It’s yeasty and doughy.”

The Feed Mill also offers homemade pies form Doris Yoder (of Summertown, Tenn.). These include strawberry rhubarb, peach, apple, blueberry, blackberry and cherry.

And if you like fried pie…?

“Our fried pies are made in Nunnelly, Tenn., and brought to me fresh every two days,” Scheff said. “I go through about 150 pies in two days. I have curbside coffee and fried pies in front of the mill from 6 to 9 a.m. Monday through Friday.”

Fried pies sold streetside in front of a 122-year-old business. Now that’s old time.

It ain't supermarket shopping

No doubt, the Feed Mill offers a mind-blowing change for those conditioned to grocery shopping at, say, Whole Foods.

Courtesy of the Amish, Scheff carries cheeses, jams, jellies, dry cured bacon, ring bologna, summer sausage and noodles. Brands include Heini’s, Guggisberg and Troyer. In addition, the Mill stocks various specialty candy and bread mixes.

On a recent weekday morning, Nolensville resident Helen Sullivan stopped by the Feed Mill.

“I think it’s great,” she replied simply when asked her take on Scheff’s distinctive business.

Of course, Scheff contends his inventory is not unusual.

“You can get someone like me from another state coming in and ogling over the Amish stuff,” he said. “However, the products I sell are what the country folks have been eating for years.”

Scheff likes the historic flavor of his business and how his customers (he gets about 100 per weekday and more than 1,000 on Saturdays) embrace the nostalgic element.

“It's not about me,” he said humbly. “It's about the community and what this store means to all people that visit us.”

When he’s on the front porch of the store, Scheff waves to well-wishers who “honk and yell” throughout the day.

“Funny how this mill can draw a lot of attention,” he said. “If I’m talking to someone outside, they always say, ‘Man you know a lot of people around here.’ Really it’s [that] they know the feed mill and have gotten to know me. I have a lot of great friends here.”