Wilder on Wine: Oh, Gruner — the perfect summer wine

I don't remember the first time I tried a gruner veltliner, but I do know that ever since it has been a contender for my favorite white wine.

Gruner veltliner is a white grape native to Austria, which is still the only place I'm aware of that grows it. Austrian wine was mostly mediocre bulk juice until the mid 1980s, when a scandal surrounding several growers adding chemicals to their wine forced the industry to enact strict new regulations.

Thanks to these new laws, which are even more stringent than elsewhere in Europe, Austrian wines show a quality level that is uniformly very high. There’s not a single Austrian wine I've had that seemed insipid or poorly made. The majority of Austrian wine growers also practice organic agriculture.

Add to their precise production methods a delicious and unique signature grape to work with, and you can see why the Austrians are really set to take a greater place in the wine world. Gruner veltliner is already quite popular in larger markets like New York City and is becoming more well-known elsewhere.

By this point, I'm sure you're wondering what it tastes like. It is one of the most complex, yet light and easy drinking wines in the world; the epitome of freshness and refinement. Gruners are usually very dry, with a somewhat dual personality. On one end, there's the grape's distinctive white pepper spice, lime and green vegetal notes, while on the other end, it's extremely approachable, showing subtle streams of orchard and melon fruit flavors. For anyone who has liked pinot grigio and sauvignon blanc, gruner veltliner is like the perfect marriage of those two varietals.

While they are delicious young, gruner veltliners also have a surprising capacity to age. I was able to try several older gruners at a trade show once, and they were mindblowingly rich, complex and delicious. Gruner veltliner truly is a wonder grape. It's also known for its ability to pair with food that other white wines have trouble complementing, in particular nearly any type of vegetable.

Try one of my favorites (listed below) on a balmy summer evening with grilled asparagus, and you'll be a gruner fan for life!

Glatzer Gruner Veltliner ($12; Horizon Wine & Spirits)
Few $12 wines offer the elegance of this little gruner. It manages to be both zesty and weighty at once, rendering it incredibly versatile. This is textbook gruner, with spicy pepper as well as juicy fruit — the perfect place to begin your gruner journey.

Huber Gruner Veltliner ($14; Best Brands)
With a label that looks like it was inspired by patio furniture upholstery or summer placemats, it's natural that this wine is spring/summer ready. The Huber shows gruner at its most citrus-centric: layers of lemon, lime and grapefruit laced with fine minerality. Winemaker Markus Huber is only in his mid-late 20s, and has been called one of the most promising winemakers in Austria.

Hopler Gruner Veltliner ($16; Aleksey's Imports)
The Hopler represents gruner at its softest and most approachable. Though the back label says something about "refined sweetness of fruit on the palate," don't be led into thinking the wine itself is sweet. It's not. It is, however, quite lush. Really smoky notes waft from the glass, leading into gorgeous melon and rich, ripe orchard fruits. The mouthfeel is lovely, and it's still got great acidity.

Leth Gruner Veltliner ($17; Best Brands)
So light and delicate, yet so full of zippy flavors. Really long finish that hints at so many different things: pine, herb, lemon meringue, key lime, white pepper. It's rare to find such a complex wine for less than $20. This wine is made organically.

Wimmer-Czerny Gruner Veltliner Fumberg ($18; Best Brands)
Hans Czerny lives right across the road from Franz Leth (producer of the wine mentioned above), demonstrating the amazing variety and quality available in such a small part of the wine world. Hans and Franz couldn't be more different in appearance: Hans is a snappy dresser, very modern and makes his organic gruner in a very streamlined, sleek style. Franz, on the other hand, is a lot more bohemian, and his organic (and biodynamic) wine reflects an earthier aesthetic. While the fruit aromas on the nose sound really tropical (honeyed melon, banana, a touch of coconut), they're all incredibly well-integrated and become a whole that's something else altogether when combined with the palate's rich minerality. A gorgeous texture with subtle acidity. Mineral, a clovey spice and orchard fruit notes linger on the finish.