Wilder on Wine: A Taste of the Tour, Part 1

A view of Bourg-Saint-Maurice's countryside in the heart of the French Alps

What captures my imagination the most about the Tour de France isn't so much the amazing athleticism involved when a rider seems to almost effortlessly whip ahead of the pack after a strenuous day of more than one hundred miles on the bike (though that is quite exciting!).

For me, it's imagining the vineyards that line the route, and the wines that will come from their grapes. The tour goes through some of my favorite French wine regions. How amazing would it be to follow the tour by day and spend the evenings at the cafes, sampling the local vintners' specialties?

And French wines are a great snapshot of place. France is one of the most stringent in its dedication to producing wines reflective of the specific earth they came from. The French even have a word for this concept: terroir, an almost mystic sense of place incorporating everything from soil type to surrounding vegetation to weather patterns. It's one of the things I love about French wines.

Here's my guide to a virtual tour of the wine regions included in the Tour de France. I'll skip the part of the tour that's already taken place (though it pains me, because it goes through some amazing wine regions in Provence and the Languedoc) — it's more fun to follow along as they go. So we'll start with stage 12 (Thursday). Look for Part 2 in next Thursday's City Paper. Thanks to Steve Larios of East Nashville's Asphalt Beach Inline Skate Shop for this great column idea.

Stage 12: Tonnerre to Vittel - Champagne (July 16)
Louis Perdrier ($8, Tennessee Wine & Spirits)
Technically not true Champagne but possibly the best deal on sparkling French wine going. It lacks the complexity of higher-level sparklers but is perfect for casual meals and toasts.

Marc Hebrart Rosė ($58, Horizon Wine & Spirits)
If you want to splurge, try my favorite true Champagne. A super-delicate pinot noir/chardonnay blend that is all about grace and beauty. Made on the same estate where the grapes are grown - known alternately as "Indie Bubbles," "Farmer Fizz," or "Grower Champagne." It may not be a "brand" that you recognize, but you can bet that these farmers are putting their best into a wine that bears their name.


Stages 13 & 14: Vittel to Colmar to Besancon - Alsace (July 17 & July 18)
Kuentz-Bas Alsace Blanc ($15, Best Brands)
A clean and crisp blend of pinot blanc, silvanner, riesling and muscat. Beautiful and floral, with a bit of a biscuity taste. Importer Kermit Lynch says, "If ever your palate is poisoned by an over-alcoholic oakbomb, this is the antidote."

Pierre Sparr "Red Silk" Pinot Noir ($18, Athens Distributors)
While Alsace is famous for heart-stopping whites (like its next door neighbor, Germany), it makes some great lightweight reds as well. A gorgeous, flashing ruby color precedes a nose of spicy lifted florals and red fruit. The name is accurate: a silky, sexy texture on the palate makes this an extremely drinkable wine.

Stage 15: Pontarlier to Verbier - Switzerland (July 19)
Cave les Ruinettes Grand Cru ($35, Lipman Brothers)
Swiss wine is extremely rare in the United States — they keep most of it for themselves! This exciting wine from importer Rosenthal Wine Merchant shows why it's rare, and rarely inexpensive. Made with fendant, Switzerland's most widely planted white grape, the wine is bracing and pure with entrancing aromas and real backbone. Like the Tour and its riders, it's lean, racy and long . . . the word ethereal comes to mind.

Stage 16: Martigny to Bourg-Saint-Maurice - Alps (July 21)
Ferrando Carema "Etichetta Bianca" Nebbiolo ($42, Lipman Brothers)
In his book Reflections of a Wine Merchant, importer Neal Rosenthal states that Luigi Ferrando's wines are his favorite wines of all time. That's saying a lot, considering that Rosenthal has one of the most critically lauded portfolios in wine, containing many items that cost more than twice what Ferrando's Carema does. The Ferrandos' nebbiolo vineyards lie in the very shadows of Monte Bianco. Like the riders, the wine has amazing complexity and longevity. Like the mountains, it's challenging but stimulating at the same time. Very different from its more famous cousins in Barolo or Barbaresco and worth the splurge.

Stay tuned to the tour, and look for Part Two next week!