A view of Le Grand-Bornand, a ski resort town in the Rhone-Alpes region of France
I hope you enjoyed Part 1 of my recommendations for a taste of the Tour de France. We continue this week with Part 2!
What captures my imagination the most about the Tour de France isn't so much the amazing athleticism involved when a rider seems to almost effortlessly whip ahead of the pack after a strenuous day of more than 100 miles on the bike (though that is quite exciting!). For me, it's imagining the vineyards that line the route, and the wines that will come from their grapes. The tour goes through some of my favorite French wine regions. How amazing would it be to follow the tour by day, and spend the evenings at the cafes, sampling the local vintners' specialties?
And French wines are a great snapshot of place. France is one of the most stringent in its dedication to producing wines reflective of the specific earth they came from. They even have a word for this concept: terroir, an almost mystic sense of place incorporating everything from soil type to surrounding vegetation to weather patterns. It's one of the things I love about French wines.
Here's my guide to a virtual tour of the wine regions that line the course during the Tour's final week.
Stages 17 and 18: Bourg-Saint-Maurice to Le Grand Bornand to Annecy - Savoie (July 22 and 23)
You may or may not remember my column several months back about the excellent but little-known wine regions that line the Alps. Producing wines as clean and fresh as the meadow-laden, snow-capped images of the region engraved in the popular imagination, these are some of the most terroir reflexive wines in France. I'm very excited to have the opportunity to mention some of these excellent wines again in the context of the Tour!
NV Boniface Brut de Savoie ($22, Aleksey's Imports): This sparkling wine is made from the local jacquere grape, which grows throughout the Savoie region. I firmly believe that sparkling wine should be enjoyed far more often than it is — not just for special occasions. This bubbly has a glimmer of the toastiness of a Champagne, but it's lighter bodied and more casual. Perfect for any occasion.
2005 Puffeney Arbois Vielles Vignes ($35, Lipman): France's Jura region is one of the most unique in the country. It's a place that has held onto tradition with an iron grip, resulting in wines that taste very similar to how they did centuries ago. Jacques Puffeney is often called the "Mayor of Arbois," a tiny appellation within the Jura, and this wine, made with the local red grape poulsard, is a must-try for anyone who loves earthy pinot noir or gamay. Light, yet intensely layered, it's tempting to drink this haunting red too quickly — but unlike the Tour riders, a leisurely pace will serve you best when discovering all this unique wine has to offer.
Stage 19: Bourgoin-Jallieu to Aubenas - Northern Rhone (July 24)
2005 Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage ($25, Athens Distributing): When we think of Rhône wines, we're most often actually referring to the wines of the southern Rhone, which blend up to 14 different grapes, with grenache, mourvedre, cinsault, syrah and others leading the way. In the Northern Rhône, the wines are much more rare, and the reds usually contain only syrah. They are worth seeking out. The Jaboulet is the most affordable example that is readily available here in Nashville. It's a textbook northern Rhône syrah, with flavors of bacon fat, white pepper, pine forest, black cherry, red plum and even hints of dark chocolate cake.
Stage 20: Montelimar to Mont Ventoux - Southern Rhone (July 25)
2008 In Fine Rose ($14, Best Brands Distributors): This is what I would want to chug after a long, hot climb up a mountain. Southern France is known for their dry pink wines, and this one shows why: juicy strawberry and blackberry with hints of mineral and herb. A blend of 80% grenache, with the balance in syrah and cinsault, harvested in the shadow of Mont Ventoux.
2007 Domaine la Milliere Cotes du Rhône ($20, Lipman Brothers Distributors): In the southern Rhône, 2007 is a must-have year. The Domaine’s 100-plus year old vines outdid themselves, delivering a palate-staining richness in practically every berry. The combination of the estate’s very old vines, stony terroir (similar to the best in Châteauneuf) and winemaking talent that spans generations make this brilliant Côtes du Rhône a no-brainer. Aromas of licorice and lavender mix with red berries and smoke on the expressive nose. Blackberry juice and plenty of Syrah-inspired bacon fat washes over the tongue; the finish blends black cherries and more native garrigue spice and is absolutely captivating. This is a bold red that is almost too easy to drink.
Stage 21: Montereau-Fault-Yonne to Paris - Chablis (July 26)
2007 William Fevre "Champs Royaux" Chablis ($20, Athens Distributing): 2007 wasn't just a magic year for the Rhône — Burgundy's most northerly subregion, Chablis, also had a classic vintage. Chablis is famous for its soil, which is a chalky white Kimmeridgeon soil full of fossils. This leads to a wine that is prized for its bracing minerality and thrillingly complex structure. Like the rest of the whites from Burgundy, it's made with the chardonnay grape but bears little to no resemblance to the fat, toasty, buttery chardonnays more common on our soils. Toast the tour with it now, or save it for the 2017 Tour de France.
Questions? Comments? Contact Courtney at wilderonwine@gmail.com